We arrive at Ranowangko II windswept from the two hour motorbike ride across the North Sulawesi peninsula from Manado. The sky is pink as the local children take us to the beach, showing off their skills at capturing tiny hermit crabs, which we eventually persuade them to put back. Bigger crabs scuttle in the rocks encasing the beach, but it’s not those that we’re here to see. One of Manengkel Solidaritas’ projects is to support the marine life in Ranowangko II. Already it is